Live (a little) like a monk in Heidelberg

Stift Neuburg welcomes guests. Photo: Immanuel Giel

With some 4 million tourists descending on Heidelberg each year, few know they can stay at a medieval monastery that’s a world away but still close to it all. Apparently the 6th-century Rule of St Benedict commands that monasteries should always have guests (who knew), so if life calls for a few soul-soothing days in quiet, idyllic surroundings, check it out. If you like, you can eat, pray, and work with the monks.

Expect simplicity – but not self denial. There’s a first-rate brewery and restaurant on the grounds after all. To find out about staying there for yourself or a small group, call +49 6221 895-122 or try this email address Gaestehaus@abtei-neuburg.de. When I called, I was told they could accommodate English-speaking guests. And yes, women are now welcome as well.

Stift Neuburg is also a great destination after a hike through the hills, with stunning views of the city and the Neckar river below. Kids can pet the animals and everyone can enjoy the grounds, the beer, and the restaurant’s treats, such as trout from the monastery’s own pond.

Map

Stift Neuburg is just one of many monasteries that offers lodging throughout Europe – at prices far below hotels and sometimes even hostels. It’s a tradition that dates back centuries, although many of the guest houses are no longer run by the monks or nuns. For many religious communities, offering rooms and making available the produce, meat, or beer produced on the grounds is now an economic necessity to maintain the sites and the life of the community.

Unlike Stift Neuburg, most aren’t so close to a city; for example, the stunning monastery Benediktbeuren is about half an hour from Munich. But with an easy train connection, famous tourist destinations nearby, and plenty of stressed-out Munich residents, it’s already booked nearly a year in advance.

But my personal favorite is Mont Saint-Odile in France, near the German border, high in the mountains near Strassbourg. Named after Alsace’s patron saint, it’s perched on top of a huge rock outcropping, with panoramic views of the entire countryside. It dates back to the 8th century and is also famous for the so-called pagan wall that was built at least 2,5000 years ago. Nobody knows why, but during the 4-hour hike on the path along the wall, you’ll feel its magic. From the monastery, there’s also a path that goes to an ancient fountain with “miracle water” for eye problems (alas, I’m still wearing my glasses).

The story has it that Odile, the blind daughter of the Duke of Alsace in the 7th century, was ordered killed by her father and hidden by her mother in a convent. When she was christened at 12, she miraculously was able to see and returned home. More family intrigues led to her fleeing when her father tried to marry her off and she was able to escape when a rock opened to hide her. Finally convinced she was special, he gave her Castle of Hohenbourg, which she turned into the monastery. There’s now the Chapel of Tears, where she’s said to have cried and prayed for her father in purgatory.

Staying in a monastery

For a list of monasteries in Germany, here’s how to order a brochure (in German). Booking in Italy is even easier with the English site monestarystays. And in France, this book gives an overview of the possibilities. For a list of other things to consider, check out Leyla Giray’s great article about staying in monasteries.

2 Comments

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  Katy Mar 9, 2012 at 3:43 pm

  Just to contribute:Ostrog nstaomery of Serb Orthodox Church located in Montenegro (one of the most visited monasteries on Balkans):One of the interesting things is that it was bombed during WWII but all grenades ended unexploded. Some of them can still be found stuck in the walls.

  Reply
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    Sylvia Lehnen Mar 10, 2012 at 3:20 am

    Thanks for that tip, Katy. One of my friends is from Montenegro so I’ll mention this to her.

    Reply